When two captains discovered an island after being blown off course during a storm in 1419, they named it Madeira – the Portuguese for wood – due to the abundance of trees. As we landed there, we remarked about the same thing.
We had survived the infamously ropey landing into Madeira thanks to Jet2.com – the only airline that flies to the island from sunny Scotland. On our transfer to our hotel, we bombarded our poor driver with questions about the island, our eyes fixed on the views beyond our windows. From the get-go, we knew we had to walk the levadas, try the local bread smothered in garlic butter and be wary of the potentially too delicious island drink, poncha.
My boyfriend Aidan and I have been wanting to visit Madeira for years. Despite it being traditionally frequented by an older generation, it looked perfect for us – good food, stunning scenery and a hub of outdoor pursuits. We are absolutely not sit on the beach and relax kind of people, we like to be in the hustle and bustle, especially if we have flown more than four hours to get somewhere.
On our week-long trip we would be staying at two hotels, both under the Savoy Signature brand – Madeira’s crown is bejewelled with their properties, with something to suit every traveller. Our first stop was Saccharum in Calheta on the island’s southwestern coast. Balanced right on the water, embedded in the cliffs, the hedonist design resort’s five stars were earned through its role as a haven of tranquil luxury.
Saccharum is the Latin name for sugarcane, which used to be one of the island’s biggest exports. The hotel is built on the site of a sugarcane mill and pays delicate homage to this part of the island’s history in its industrial design elements and copper-clad pool. Everything about this place is grand, but in a whisper rather than a shout.
The influence of the outside on the in was obvious in our corner pool suite. The glass sliding doors on both sides meant the Atlantic Ocean was never not in sight. Soft greens called to the luscious landscape the island was named after and the private outdoor pool and balcony meant we could spend as much time as we liked listening to the ocean.
You could easily spend your time within the walls of Saccharum, dipping your toe in each of the pools one after the other – the infinity on the roof was our favourite – or stretching from morning yoga into an afternoon cocktail class. We were keen to see more of the island though, so had packed our hiking boots to head into the hills and Madeira’s levadas.
Madeira’s levadas are a system of channels, mostly bordering mountains but also going through them, that transport water across the island. More than 3,000km of levadas stretch across Madeira, dating back to the mid 15th century and you can walk alongside many of them. You can navigate them alone, but we went on a guided walk in the Rabaçal area with Reuben from Madeira Adventure Kingdom. Going with a private guide was invaluable, as he tweaked our route to suit our abilities, meaning we saw more than we otherwise would have. Reuben guided us to secret spots that rivaled the popular ones he also ensured we saw, led us through a mountain by torchlight and took us to picnic at the foot of a waterfall. The views were those we had dreamed of visiting Madeira for – the kind that make you oblivious to the thousands of steps you are doing.
After our hike, Saccharum’s focus on relaxation was exactly what we needed. No hotel that preaches wellness would be complete without a spa, and Saccharum’s takes that to the next level. We enjoyed a couple’s massage – during which we were both only just clinging on to being awake – before heading into the main spa area, a sprawling indoor pool at its centre. There, you can walk through the four sensory showers and note as the pressures and scents change on your skin, brave a cold plunge and recline in the sauna.
The temperature when we visited Madeira in May was perfect; warm enough to feel like we were on holiday but with enough of a cool breeze to make being outside very comfortable. Our final afternoon was spent by the sea at the hotel’s Calhau Beach Club, one eye on the glistening water and one our frozen pina coladas as they threatened to melt over the side of the glass in the mid-afternoon sun.
After a final stroll up into the hills behind Saccharum, we packed our things ready to move to our next hotel for the second half of our adventure in Madeira. As soon as the Rolls-Royce appeared to collect us, we knew we were in for something truly special.
Where to eat
We ate well while we were in Madeira. Here are our favourite restaurants in and around Saccharum by Savoy Signature.
1 Engenho Restaurant
We had our first meal on our holiday at Engenho Restaurant and it was a relaxed but still elevated setting to switch off after a day of travel. The theme of the buffet changes every evening and the offering is extensive without being wasteful. There is live cooking station as well as gorgeous charcuterie boards. Make sure to leave room for desssert as this satisfied my sweet tooth. Choose a table by the front for the most glorious views of the sea and sunset as you eat.
2. Alambique Restaurant
If you want to treat yourself to something special, make sure to book a table at Alambique. Alambique is immersed in the gastronomic essence of Madeira with a focus on local ingredients and sustainable practices. The tasting menu options showcase the best of the island, including tuna, swordfish, skipjack, banana and passion fruit..
3. Calhau Beach Club
Make sure you leave time in your itinerary to spend an afternoon at Saccharum’s Calhau Beach Club. The food menu is packed full of fresh and flavourful lunch options to enjoy right on the beach or from your sun lounger. If you are a seafood fan, the coastal fish cevich with, mango, ginger and lime is delicious. The frozen cocktails are perfect for warmer days.
4. Onda Azul
If you fancy an evening stroll, head along to Onda Azul at Saccharum’s sister property, Calheta Beach Hotel. The portions are huge for the price and well suited to sharing. I had the signature Onda Azul chicken which was packed full of flavour.
To be continued next weekend…
FACTFILE
Rooms at Saccharum start at 195€ per night. For more information, go to www.savoysignature.com/saccharumhotel
Fly with Jet2.com from Edinburgh to Madeira on 22nd September 2025.
Price: £98 per person, one-way including taxes. 10kg hand luggage included in price.
Fly with Jet2.com from Glasgow to Madeira on 20th October 2025.
Price: £81 per person, one-way including taxes. 10kg hand luggage included in price.
*** All deals supplied are the cheapest available rates for the flight(s) specified and therefore availability may be limited at this price. Prices are correct as at 22/07/2025.
Find out more and book at Jet2.com
PS
If you want to heighten the luxury even further, you can add the Savoy Premium Experience to any stay. This gives you access to extras like a welcome drink, Bali beds at Calhau Beach Club, unlimited spa use, a separate premium sundeck and breakfast area, yoga classes and more.